Your Wi-Fi speed stinks. Here are 10 things you can do about it.

Is your 802.11n router not keeping up with your 100Mbps downpipe, dropping HD video streams and copying files at mindboggingly slow speeds? Help is here!

Free Wi-Fi

Unfortunately, the 300Mbps (megabits per second) that the 802.11n standard promises rarely delivers anything even close and proves to be a massive bottleneck in the days of 50/100Mbps (or more?) broadband connections, 1080p video streaming, massive backups and so forth.

If you're sick of slow Wi-Fi speeds but hate to go back to Ethernet, we've got a handful of tips that'll help boost weak signals.

Check your router's eco settings

Some routers are set up with their "Power savings" mode on by default. The goal: save a few milliwatts. Unfortunately, this commendable approach reduced bandwidth disproportionately. Although my trusty Linksys WRT610N router wasn't set up with unnecessary power savings in mind, I turned on its low power modes just to see the effects: The "low" setting lowered the power output of my 802.11n router from 19 to 18 watts. Bandwidth was reduced from an already low 19Mbps down to 5Mbps with my clients and router being only separated by a single concrete wall.

If you value bandwidth over minimal power savings, check out the router's setting and look for entries called "Transmission Power" or various Eco modes. Turn them OFF.

freaky flower pot
Credit: Ben Husmann
Overcome the laws of physics

The distance between your router and the wireless adapter is a more relevant factor than you might think. Here's a rule of thumb: Just by doubling the distance between router and client you can expect throughput to shrink to one-third of its original value. A wireless repeater, which will set you back $20-$100, should boost your signal noticeably.

In addition to distance, the other wireless signal killers are the objects and elements that are in the way of throughput, namely water and metal. Water acts as a blockade for 2.42GHz signals, so it may be wise to get all objects in your home or office that contain any form of liquids out of the way (this includes radiators and flower pots -- no kidding!).

Credit: YouTube.com
Upgrade your router's antenna

Packet loss and weak throughput is often caused by weak antenna design. Good news: You can replace the built-in antenna of your router with something much more powerful. It's a bit of a hassle, but it may make the difference between a slow connection (or none at all) and a speedy line to your router!

Depending on your setup, you'll want to go with either an omnidirectional antenna that scatters the signal throughout your home or a directional antenna if most of the devices that are in need for good throughput are in one room. Probably the best and most extensive guide for replacing antennas is Binary Wolf's.

Credit: ITworld/Sandro Villinger
Figure out the best spot for your router

Use a Wi-Fi heatmapping tool to measure the impact of distance, frequency changes and building structures on signal strength. Two tools that are great for this job are NetSpot for Mac and Heatmapper for Windows. Both tools allow you to track Wi-Fi coverage in your office or home.

Obviously, the more points you scan, the more exact your Wi-Fi heatmap. Once you're done, you end up with a map that shows you not just the signal strength but also the throughput of your Wi-Fi network.

MSI external Wi-Fi adapter
Credit: MSI
Varying CPU frequencies effect wireless signals

Your computer's motherboard is also working in the "Gigahertz" spectrum. That "noise" is being picked up by your built-in Wi-Fi transmitter. Unfortunately, the higher that noise is, the more likely it is for your wireless adapter to lower bandwidth automatically (by lowering the link-rate and avoiding frequency interferences). Especially on laptops, the Wi-Fi adapter is often built close to the memory and CPU bus, which is a major source for problems.

If these symptoms sound familiar you might solve this issue by getting an external adapter. Putting space between the Wi-Fi adapter and your CPUs noise is likely to help a lot and it will only cost you between $20 and $40.

Firmware or driver issues

An easy, yet often forgotten piece of advice: Make sure that your router's firmware is up-to-date -- especially if you've purchased a new one. Expect bandwidth, feature set and resiliency to signals to increase with the first few firmware updates. (My Linksys router could only deliver full bandwidth to my living room after the upgrade.)

Also make sure that the Wi-Fi adapter (either external or built-in) is always up-to-date. Dropouts, standby issues, low performance may be gone in the next 0.1 release of your adapter's drivers. Although the frequent driver delivery via Windows Update has gotten better in recent years, it rarely fetches you the latest and the greatest drivers. Instead, go to the manufacturer's support pages for driver updates. (See next slide.)

Driver updates

The first place to hit for updates is the manufacturer's support pages. But if their driver area is not well maintained, you can go the chipset maker's website. It's not uncommon that the chipset of each Wi-Fi adapter was just bought and rebranded. For example, my external Linksys WUSB 600N adapter houses the popular RT2870 chipset manufactured by Taiwanese manufacturer Ralink. It's a perfect example for why going straight to the chipset maker is always a smart move

As you can see in this slide, Ralink updated their drivers several times. And since the chipsets match, their drivers work flawlessly with the 600N.

Choose the right channel

The day your router is set up, it automatically detects the least crowded channel and makes that its default. However, with the arrival of new neighbors or offices nearby, the situation may change quickly: All of a sudden, one channel may be used by a handful of routers while others are deserted. InSSIDer is your little helper: The tool analyzes the entire Wi-Fi spectrum and gives you details about your home network as well as channel usage.

baby monitor on bookshelf
Use your router's 5GHz network

The 2.4GHz frequency is crowded. Not just with neighbors using the same frequency, but also baby monitors, cordless phones, microwave ovens and more. Modern 802.11n routers offer "dualband", which means they're sending two network signals: One at 2.4GHz, and one at 5GHz, which is far less crowded and offers more channels. So why not make the jump to 5GHz and enjoy a less crowded Wi-Fi frequency at higher speeds? Well, unfortunately, many device makers thought it was a good idea to save some pennies on the Wi-Fi chip and go only with the 2.4 GHz receiver.


Here's my advice: Activate both networks and connect the mobile devices to the 2.4 GHz network. Just enable the 5GHz network for your laptops and desktops.

Limit your router's frequency band

Sometimes you can't have the luxury of choosing the 5GHz frequency band or selecting a "lonely" channel. In such cases, it may be worthwhile to limit your router to sending out signals at intervals of 20MHz. This might reduce overall throughput a bit, but it will give you a stronger signal with less dropouts.

Benchmark your connection the right way

There are a lot of Wi-Fi monitoring tools around to measure the impact of all the tips we just gave you and spit out bandwidth values. However, none of them come close to the accuracy of iPerf. This tool has a client for the laptop/PC you're about to measure and a server tool that sits on a PC directly connected to the router. By having analyzers on both ends, you know exactly how fast your Wi-Fi actually is.

My advice: go through your space and try out different locations for both the router and the clients. The heatmapping tools should give you a good indication of the best spot.